Day 6: Moordrudalur Valley/ Lake Myvatn

29 September 2018

It is still very cold and windy this morning, and it clouded over in the night so there was no northern light viewing. As we rugged up in all our gear just to get to breakfast, we had a nice treat in that we got to see an arctic fox.

Heading from our lodge we didn’t go back along the rough road we had travelled on the way in – it was a quick trip out to the main highway. But soon after we turned off again onto unsealed road (that had signs that indicated that it had been closed very recently). It was very bleak up to top and we had a very brief stop to look at rock cairns that in the past had marked the highway pass.

The road was very rough and I started to feel very car sick despite having taken a tablet this morning. Just as I was about to ask to stop, we saw the sign to the waterfall. Dettifoss is Europe’s mightiest cascade: 96,500 gallons of water flowing per second, and the vibrations can be felt in the nearby rocks. It is not the tallest or the widest but it carries the most volume. The walk into the canyon is also spectacular (but mighty cold today).

It is a relief when we stop at the Asbyrgi canyon, a massive horse-shoe shaped canyon formed by a glacial flood, because it is sheltered from the bitter wind. Legend has it that the canyon was formed when the god Odin’s horse stamped its foot on the ground. The autumn colours are gorgeous and the river is very clear green in colour. There are all sorts of interesting mosses as well.

We stop at the fishing town of Húsavík on the northern coast at lunchtime, only to discover that 2 of its 4 cafes have closed up for the season. It is hosing down with rain and after trying the 2 closed cafes, we settle on fish and chips again – a huge meal that is very fresh. There is nothing much in the town except for whale watching and there is certainly none of that happening today.

As we head up into the hills again it begins to snow quite heavily. We stop to take photos and make snowballs but then get back in the van quickly because the wind is extremely cold.

The snow has turned to sleet by the time we reach Skutustadagadir – with fascinating lake Myvatn, that has an assortment of pseudo-craters that are formed when hot lava meets water and forms steam vents. There are lots all round this area. Most get back into the van after taking a quick photo but four of us decide that we need to do a walk around to stretch our legs – and get the bonus of seeing Icelandic sheep and two cute lambs. (I somehow managed to set my camera to black and white for this section).

Next is an interesting stop at Dimmuborgir – where the Icelandic Christmas trolls are said to live. There are fascinating lava formations, some of which really do look like trolls. There are lots of caves and fissures that evoke an other worldly feeling – especially as it is now snowing. We have time for a bit of an explore and then a hot chocolate.

On the next leg it is snowing heavily again and Lisa plays Christmas songs for us! Then a couple of little stops: one to a cave that has a hot stream flowing through it (used to film a scene in Game of Thrones); and a bizarre site with an outdoor hot shower and a hand basin in the middle of nowhere (the hot shower was constantly running). Then a stop at an old sulphur mine area with bubbling water and mud and water pools and steam pouring out of piles of stone.

We had been looking forward all day to soaking in the natural hot pools but when we got there they told us that the main pools were down to 33C and a few hardy souls were competing for the warmest spots in the slightly warmer pool area. We had been a bit dubious about getting into the pools with the snow falling around us, so it didn’t take a lot of convincing for us to continue on to our accommodation and settle for a glass of wine instead.

Dinner tonight is provided in the hotel restaurant – cauliflower soup, salmon and then followed by local Skyr (a sort of yoghurty cream cheese) served with fruit.

 

Please join me over the next several posts as I take you on our Journey to the Arctic (and more).

The Joy of Business Class

Copenhagen Stopover Day 1
Copenhagen Stopover Day 2

Arctic Express: Northern Lights
Day 1: Copenhagen to Reykjavik
Day 2: Reykjavik to Constable Point, Greenland
Day 3: Scoresby Sund: Frederiksdal & Flyvefjord
Day 4: Scoresby Sund: Nordvestfjord & Ingmikortilaq
Day 5: Scoresby Sund: Eskimobugt & Immikkeerikajik
Day 6: Scoresby Sund: Danmark Island & Vikingsbugt
Day 7: Scoresby Sund: Cap Hope & Ittoqqortoormiit
Day 8: Scoresby Sund: Steward Island & Constable Point
Day 9: Constable Point back to Reykjavik

Iceland Discovery
Day 1: Reykjavik: Blue Lagoon
Day 2: Golden Circle
Day 3: South Coast
Day 4: Jokulsarlon
Day 5: Eastern Fjords & Moorudalur Valley
Day 6: Moorudalur Valley & Lake Myvatn
Day 7: Akureyri & Trollaskagi Peninsular
Day 8: Grabrok Volcano & Snaefellsnes Peninsular
Day 9: Snaefellsness to Reykjavik

Toronto, Canada
Day 1: Reykjavik to Toronto
Day 2: Toronto to Port Perry
Day 3: Lake Muskoka
Day 4: Millbrook
Day 5: Back to Toronto
Day 6: Toronto
Day 7: Niagara Falls

 

 

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For this and other similar tours see:

Explore Europe with Intrepid Travel (a range of different travel styles – see my post on travel styles)

Peregrine Adventures (Comfort tours)

Geckos Adventures (for 18 to 30s)

Note: After people telling me they had booked an Intrepid Tour on my recommendation, I now have affiliate links with the Intrepid Travel group of companies and may receive a commission if you book a tour online within a couple of months after clicking through to these sites.  So if you are enjoying my tips and stories and finding them useful in choosing your own travel, please click on these links and help me to bring you more .

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