Tues 3 Sept 2024
We had a slow start this morning as we still haven’t adjusted to the time zone and are both waking at 3am. We can hear the bells of the nearby church that dutifully ring out the time from 7am to 9pm (it might be 10pm but I haven’t been awake to hear them). I was puzzled by a constant ringing of the bells not corresponding with the hour, quarter or half hour. Dominique tells me that this is the ‘warning’ that the devout need to start to get ready to come to mass (three times a day!).
We set off to retrieve the car from the parking facility and transfer it to the free parking area (we managed to locate it this time). Our walk back took us past the great little shopping area about 250m from our house so we visited the recommended Traiteur (delicatessen that had been closed Sunday and Monday) and Boulangerie. Armed with a baguette, a piece of pate en croute (meat pie), pate au lapin (rabbit pate) and a selection of salads we were well prepared for a light tasty dinner no matter how tired we were at the end of the day.
The weather forecast for the day had previously been rain again so we were delighted to discover that the chance of rain had much reduced so we could set out without our raincoats for our walk about town. Our destination today is the Chateau D’Angers and the surrounding historic quarter that includes the Cathedral Saint-Maurice. On the way we visit the Toussaint Abbey (built in 1040 by the Order of Saint Augustine) that houses a collection of sculpture by local artist David d’Angers (1788-1856) and walk around the cloisters and the gardens (where the famous Doyenne du Comice pear originated).
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- Assortment of deli delights at the Traiteur
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- Many temptations at the Boulangerie/ Patisserie
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- Many temptations at the Boulangerie/ Patisserie
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- Cloisters of the Touissant Abbey with part of old city wall in front
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- Fine Art Gardens
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- Origin of Doyenne du Comice pear
Chateau D’Angers
This chateau was a royal fortress and a sumptuous residence. It has a strategic location on a rocky promontory overlooking the River Maine and has been occupied since the Neolithic Period. In the 9th century, the threat from the Normans led the Count of Anjou to settle there. Three centuries later, when the powerful Plantagenet dynasty reigned over the Anjou, a veritable palace was built there. In the 13th century, the Regent Blanche of Castile had a fortress built as a place to mass royal troops. In the 14th and 15th century, the Dukes of Anjou, Louis I, Louis II, and King Rene, enlightened princes and art lovers, conducted a brilliant court life from within the shelter of the fortress.
At the end of the 16th century, at the height of the Wars of Religion, a governor of the fortress (representative of King Henri III) had the roofs of the towers and the ramparts levelled. This adapted the fortress to advances in artillery. It was subsequently occupied by the Army and frequently used as a prison.
The castle enclosure is nearly half a kilometre long with 17 towers built in alternating blue-grey schist and white limestone. The towers are about 30m high and the gates were defended by portcullises and fall traps. One tower (the Mill Tower) once had a windmill on top and it is the only tower to have retained its original height of 40 metres. A moat once surrounded the castle but is now a garden.
Inside are a selection of residences including the royal residence that was built by King Rene between 1435 and 1440, various residence of earlier counts and dukes, and the governors residence. There is also a huge single nave chapel built around 1410 that is distinctive for its size, Angevin vaulting (highly curved Gothic vault with intersecting ribs) and private heated oratory.
On top of the ramparts there was a hanging garden with plants for medicinal, aromatic and dyeing purposes, and even some grapevines. There are also magnificent views up and down river that would have made it invaluable for defending against attacks and also managing trade on the river.
River Maine from Chateau d’Angers ramparts
The Apocalypse Tapestry
The Apocalypse Tapestry is the oldest surviving set of tapestries of this size (103m). It was commissioned in 1375 by Louis I, Duke of Anjou and brother of King Charles V and took 7 years to make (very quick for a work of this size). It is made entirely of wool and originally comprised six tapestries measuring 6m high x 23m long. The tapestry is an illustration of the Apocalypse according to St John or the Book of Revelation and recounts the prophetic visions of St John and the struggle between Good and Evil. After a series of catastrophes afflicting humanity, Christ emerges triumphant. This also offers a realistic representation of the period when it was created, with the Hundred Years War, famine and plague.
The tapestry survived a tumultuous history. When Louis II (son of Louis I) married Yolanda of Aragon in 1400, the tapestry was displayed in the courtyard of the Archbishopric of Arles. In 1480 it was bequeathed to Angers Cathedral by the last Duke of Anjou, King René. In the late 18th century it was regarded as old-fashioned and was severely mutilated. When its true value was appreciated once again in the mid-19th century, it was restored. In 1954 the tapestry was returned to the castle, which the army had just left.
104m long Apocalypse Tapestries
Historic Quarter
Located opposite the main entrance of the château, the historic quarter links the château to the cathedral via its paved streets that take you back in time. From the 3rd or 4th century the old town was protected by a Roman wall, still partly visible in places. From the late Middle Ages up until the Revolution, the principal inhabitants within the wall were clergy: canons in the larger houses, chaplains in the more modest. Although most of them were built in the 15th century, the timber-framed house at 17 rue St-Aignan, was built in 1399-1400 and is the oldest of its type in Angers.
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- Historic Quarter, Angers
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- Historic quarter
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- Oldest house, Historic Quarter
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- Historic quarter
Cathedral Saint-Maurice
A set of long stone steps lead up from the river to the Cathedral entrance (that is currently being renovated so lost much of its appeal). The cathedral was built between the 11th and 13th centuries in Angevin Gothic-style with impressive vaulted ceilings – it is 25 meters to the keystone of the arches and 15.5 meters across.
Built between the 11th and 16th centuries, it is known for its mixture of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, its ornate Baroque altar and sculpture. It also has an extensive collection of medieval stained glass windows – the oldest of which dates from 1165.
Local Cuisine
To complete our day we indulged in a (very late) lunch at a restaurant right beside the cathedral. I was interested in sampling traditional local cuisine so Dominique recommended the local pike (fish) from the river and a cremet d’Anjou (a light dessert made with whipped cream and egg whites topped with seasonal fruit purée – in this case raspberries). And of course we had to sample a local Rosé to go with our meal.
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- Dominique hates having her photo taken so this was a sneaky one
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- Fresh pike from the river
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- Anjou cremet for dessert
Exploring the Angers Region in France
Day 3: Chateau d’Angers and Historic Quarter – this post
Day 4: Exploring the Loire Valley to Cunault Abbey
Day 5: Troglodyte Village & the Mysteries of Falun
Day 6: Fontevraud Royal Abbey & Chateau du Brézé
Days 7-9: Angers, Markets & Old Town
Day 10: Troglodyte Restaurant & Medicinal Plants
Day 11: Béhaurd Island Village in Loire River
Day 12: Michelin-star Restaurant Degustation Lunch, Angers
Day 13: Day 13: Puy du Fou Historical Theme Park
Day 14: Le Thoureil, Ackerman Winery & Dolmen de Bagneaux
Day 15: Visit to Slate Museum, Trélazé
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