Wed 11 Sept 2024
Today our destination is the village of Béhaurd – on an island in the Loire River, to the south of Angers. We also explore a little further south – with several of the best wine growing regions in the world, picturesque villages and lots of history.
As we drive south from Angers Dominique points out that now we are predominantly on the Anjou Noire or black soils. These are the poorer more acidic soils with lots of slate and granite. Instead of the lush agricultural plantings out to the east, we now see countryside referred to as ‘bocage’ – pastureland divided into small hedged fields interspersed with groves of trees. Apparently, during the Wars of Religion, there were ‘tunnels’ within the hedges so that people could get about without being seen.
A long stretch of the Loire Rive in this area and its ‘arms’ are protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site, so there are beautiful wetlands all along as we drive. Many of the villages (including Béhaurd) also have France’s Villes et Villages Fleuris (Cities and Villages in Bloom) designation. This is about much more than simply displaying colourful pots of flowers, it aims to encourage the villages to improve their inhabitants’ quality of life and to promote tourism. Enhancing the natural environment and supporting sustainability are selection criteria.
Béhaurd has a fascinating history: in the 15th century King Louis XI capsized when sailing on the river, he prayed to the Virgin Mary to save him and was washed ashore. He then ordered a chapel to be built dedicated to the Virgin Mary in thanks for saving his life – Notre Dame de Béhaurd Chapel. The chapel is built upon and around a rock. Being up on a rock has saved the chapel from many floods (most recently in 2000). A statue to the Virgin Mary had already been built on this rock by the Bishop of Angers in the 5th century. It is still a very popular pilgrimage site. Each year there is a gathering in an outdoor chapel on 14-15 August – particularly for women with Mary/Maria in their names.
Dominique’s grandparents celebrated their 50th wedding anniversary in the Chapel.
There is also a very picturesque village with a lovely little restaurant that we had lunch in and several artiste’s shops. It was fascinating to see the creative use of slate from the area, being used for everything from street signs to house numbers to open/shut signs for shops and even church signs. Across the river we could see centuries old holiday homes and further along from us there was a seminary for young priests.
From Béhaurd we travelled further south for a drive around the picturesque and historic countryside. We stop at a lookout at La Haie Longue that is dedicated to local aviator René Gasnier who made his first flight from that spot. We visit the site of the Malécots coal mine – there is a replica of the headframe that was above the mine shaft and a slag heap from the mine tailings. In surrounding villages there are old miner’s pubs, miner’s chapel beside the river and more. There was also the remains of an old lime kiln that used the local coal to heat up limestone to make lime. Lime was widely used in agriculture and in lime-washing houses. When mixed with soda ash, lime also produces lye used in soap making.
This area is home to some of the best wine appellations in the world. An appellation is a legally defined and protected geographical indication primarily used to identify where the grapes for a wine were grown.
- Savennières (just across the river from Béhaurd) is famed for its particularly long-lasting dry white wine from Chenin blanc grapes – highly regarded by international wine critics. The Savennières Appellation d’Origine Controlée (AOC) spreads over 3 hills of schist, located on the right (northwest) bank of the Loire river.
- Coteaux du Layon is famed for its sweet white wine. It is situated along the river Layon, which is a tributary of the Loire. The best vineyards are generally located on the north bank of the Layon, where they enjoy a good sun exposure on roughly south-facing slopes. Six of the villages in the area are allowed to add their name to that of the appellation including Rochefort-sur-Loire and Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné, that we pass through.
Our last stop for the day is La Roche de Mûrs that is on a high cliff overlooking the Louet River (a tributary of the Loire). There is a monument built to commemorate the spot where 600 people died in 1793, some by throwing themselves down the cliff, during the Wars of Religion.
La Haie Longue Lookout
Le Louet River – in the distance you can see the Cathedral in Angers and the Tower of St Aubin
That evening we walk down to Les Halles (the Food Hall) for dinner. I have a craving for vegetables so get a meze platter while Dominique and Hamish sample some amazing tapas creations.
Tapas creations
Exploring the Angers Region in France
Day 3: Chateau d’Angers and Historic Quarter
Day 4: Exploring the Loire Valley to Cunault Abbey
Day 5: Troglodyte Village & the Mysteries of Falun
Day 6: Fontevraud Royal Abbey & Chateau du Brézé
Days 7-9: Angers, Markets & Old Town
Day 10: Troglodyte Restaurant & Medicinal Plants
Day 11: Béhaurd Island Village in Loire River
Day 12: Michelin-star Restaurant Degustation Lunch, Angers
Day 13: Day 13: Puy du Fou Historical Theme Park
Day 14: Le Thoureil, Ackerman Winery & Dolmen de Bagneaux
Day 15: Visit to Slate Museum, Trélazé
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