Arthur’s Pass National Park (2)

25 May 2025

After the magnificent day we had yesterday, we woke to a very grey and dismal morning with very heavy rain forecast for the evening. It was perfect for lingering a bit longer snuggling in bed with a book before getting up to light the fire and make some breakfast. It wasn’t raining yet so we decided to walk up to the Devil’s Punchbowl Falls that we had seen in the distance yesterday,

There are over 400 steps up to the Devil’s Punchbowl Falls, so we took it easy on the way up, stopping to look at the views of the valley under brooding stormy skies and to keep our eyes out for different fungi from the ones we saw on the Arthur’s Pass Walking Track yesterday. We were rewarded with some very cute, bright red mushrooms that were smaller than my finger nail. I also managed to photograph a titipounamu (rifleman) that ventured a bit closer to us than usual – not particularly good photos but I share them below because of rarity.

There are great views of the waterfall and back down the valley from the viewing platform. The Falls themselves are 131m high and there is an impressive amount of water coming down. We continue on up past the viewing platform to get a better view of the ‘Punchbowl’. We are lucky that the wind is blowing the spray from the waterfall away from us, but then it starts to rain so we get wet anyway.

Once we reach the bottom of the track on our way back, the rain has eased and Chloe decides that she wants to go for a swim in the river but there are too many people around for her usual swimming hole. Going for a dip is definitely not for me but I walk with Chloe down river to another swimming hole nearer the village. It is just below where the rail bridge where the railway enters the Otira Tunnel.

I learn that there is a tradition of having a rubber ducky race down this section of the river every Easter. The ducks are painted blue to represent the endangered NZ native whio or blue duck. Ironically, this year’s race had to be cancelled because there were real blue ducks on the river.

A very different day for a walk

On the bridge looking up to the falls

Views on the way up

Tiny red fungi

Tiny red fungi

Views on the way up

Views on the way up

Titipounamu (rifleman) captured in flight

Titipounamu (rifleman) captured in flight

Titipounamu (rifleman) captured in flight

Titipounamu (rifleman) captured in flight

Devil’s Punchbowl Falls from viewing platform

The ‘Punch bowl’

Up by the ‘Punch bowl’

Up by the ‘Punch bowl’

Such a lot of water!

Looking back down the valley

By the swimming hole

Swimming

Rail bridge to Otira Tunnel with storm brewing

Then it is back to the cabin for hot showers and dry clothes. The rain has started in earnest now so we have lunch and then settle in for wet afternoon indoor activities in front of the fire. I sort through my photos and write up my blog posts.

We didn’t see or hear any kea today which perversely is a good thing. There used to be lots of kea hanging around the village – and people would feed them. Feeding them is bad for many reasons but one of the worst here was that the kea would swoop down to where the food was but unfortunately that was across the main highway so many were being hit by cars. Efforts to stop people feeding the kea has paid off with a great drop off in kea deaths in the area.

Kea are the world’s only alpine parrot and nationally endangered. They are named for their loud, piercing ‘keee-ah’ cry and well known for their cheeky, inquisitive (and sometimes destructive) behaviour.  They are considered to be a smart as a four-year-old child and have intelligence similar to primates. They are able to solve logic puzzles and enjoy a good challenge. Hunters, farmers and hikers have encountered kea which have figured out how to remove rubbish bin lids and to open sliding doors. One kea even learned that if it carried a piece of firewood to a hiking hut each day and then knocked on the door it would get food in exchange!  Unfortunately this inquisitive behaviour also makes them susceptible to some of the dangers of interacting with humans.

In the evening some friends of Chloe’s from the village join us for dinner. It is a very enjoyable evening with lots of tales of local characters, history, events and intrigues of the area. The heavy rain has come as promised along with very strong winds but we are nice and cosy in the cabin. We can hear the river roaring nearby.