A year ago I had just returned from my trip to Antarctica. When trying to get a feel for the region everyone of course recommends the famous books about the early explorers, such as: The Last Place on Earth, Roland Huntford. This dual biography re-examines every detail of the great race to the South Pole between Britain’s Robert Scott and Norway’s Roald Amundsen. Scott, who dies along with four of his men only eleven miles from his next cache of supplies, became Britain’s beloved failure, while … [Read more...]
Antarctic Contemplation
Since returning from our Expedition to Antarctica I have had time to contemplate the journey and what it meant to me: I feel such privilege at having been able to see even a small glimpse into the life cycles of the amazing animals and birds that call this vast inhospitable area home. We have had flocks of Antarctic Petrel, Skuas and more swooping and diving around the ship. I am delighted at having been able to see penguin chicks and their delightful antics as they prepare for a fully fledged … [Read more...]
Expedition to Antarctica
Join me on an expedition to Antarctica (Ross Sea region) via NZ's Subantarctic Islands with Heritage Expeditions - a trip of a lifetime. Over the next several days I will post stories and photos of our adventures. Sitting at home in the midst of yet another Covid lockdown, I began to think about travel and what I would be most disappointed that I hadn't managed to see if I wasn't able to travel ever again. My top two places were Antarctica and Africa (both with incredible scenery and … [Read more...]
Day 1-2 Meeting and Departure
Saturday 8/Sunday 9 January 2023 I am sharing this Adventure of a Lifetime with a (almost) lifetime friend Anne who I first met at school 50 years ago. We had long talked about travelling to Antarctica together but life events had got in the way - until now. I fly down from Auckland and Anne has to bus up from Invercargill (only to have to bus back down again tomorrow). Our expedition starts in Queenstown where we join our fellow passengers (and a few crew) at the Copthorne Lakefront Hotel. … [Read more...]
Day 3 The Snares
Monday 9 January 2023 We awoke to a relatively calm morning to discover that we hadn’t yet made it to The Snares Islands as expected. There is an unusual easterly swell of about 4m that means the usual plan of finding shelter in the lee of the eastern side of the island needed rethinking. We set sail again whilst we have breakfast (another mind-boggling selection of food of every description), arriving in time to set off for our Zodiac adventures around 9.00am. The steep granite cliffs tower … [Read more...]
Day 4 Auckland Islands – Enderby Island
Tuesday 10 January 2023 We have sailed to the Auckland Islands overnight and outside the window this morning is Enderby Island. The Auckland Islands are the largest, highest and most biologically diverse of all the Subantarctic Islands, formed from the eroded and sea-flooded remains of two ancient volcanoes. Enderby Island is at the northernmost tip and helps to form Port Ross, a somewhat sheltered harbour. There are 3 options for activities today: Full day hike of the Northern Circuit … [Read more...]
Day 5 At Sea
Wednesday 11 January 2023 As we left the lee of the Auckland Islands we began to notice that we were definitely in the Southern Ocean. The wind and the swell increased and we all started to practice our sea legs in earnest as we ricocheted from wall to wall as we walked down corridors in an ungainly fashion. I provided early entertainment as I tried to walk across the restaurant carrying a cup of tea. It quickly became apparent to all that the safest bet was to quickly locate a seat and then … [Read more...]
Day 6 Macquarie Island
Thursday 12 January 2023 We are still sailing when we wake up this morning but Macquarie Island comes into view as we are having breakfast. It is a relatively late start this morning while we wait to clear immigration, and also because the 3 rangers on the island refuse to start work before 7.00 their time even though we are at 9.00 a few metres away! It is a very silly situation. We also discover that even though our phones are set to flight mode and I haven’t even turned on Wifi - the … [Read more...]
Day 7 Macquarie Island
Friday 13 January 2023 We have stayed anchored in the shelter of Sandy Bay overnight but in the morning make our way slightly north to Buckles Bay on the eastern side of the peninsular at the top of Macquarie Island where there is a research station. Macquarie Island has World Heritage status for its physical features without even considering the remarkable endemic wild life there. It was forced up from the ocean floor by the collision of the Australian and Pacific plates - the only place on … [Read more...]
Day 8 At Sea
Saturday 14 January 2023 We are now somewhere in the Southern Ocean, next stop Antarctica. We have been sailing all night and will be at sea for at least the next 3 days. So there is a much more relaxed rhythm (other than that of the rolling sea) with breakfast at 8.00 and a series of lectures and workshops planned throughout the day, with plenty of free time to read, write, sort out photos or whatever your pleasure might be. Anne, Margaret, Michael (photographer) and I linger over breakfast … [Read more...]