At the end of 2025 I was extremely privileged to have a glimpse into the lives of the Sea Gypsies or Sea Nomads off the east coast of Borneo. Sea Gypsies or Sama-Bajau peoples are a group of nomadic, seafaring peoples, living off the sea by trading and subsistence fishing in the area around Borneo, the Philippines and Indonesia. Today the majority have abandoned boat living and instead live in stilt houses in the coastal shallows. The Malaysian government recognizes the Sama-Bajau as … [Read more...]
Different Ways to Make Chai Tea
Chai Tea is synonymous with India: it is served to welcome guests and chaiwallas are found on every corner with their huge kettles full of simmering chai. I learned how to make a traditional Masala Chai at a cooking class on my trip to India and have previously shared the recipe. Although I love chai, it is sweeter than I generally like and it takes a bit of effort to make it properly. In this post I look at different easier ways to enjoy the spice flavours of Chai (the Hindi word for tea that … [Read more...]
Final Day: Cook in Kathmandu
1 November 2019 I had one last day in Kathmandu before my flight home because they recommended that I allow at least 24 hours between any flight into Kathmandu and an international connection. Having experienced first hand the delays that can occur getting in and out of Kathmandu, this is very sage advice. This time I stayed in a different hotel from the one we stayed in at the start of our journey: I stayed at the Kathmandu Guest House - the first ever hotel in Kathmandu. It was … [Read more...]
Day 20: Paro back to Kathmandu
31 October 2019 Well we have come to the end of our trip and begin the journey home. We are advised that we should allow at least 24 hours between our flight from Bhutan to Nepal and any international connections as delays are very common (don’t we know it). So I have another night in Kathmandu and will do a cooking class before our flight to Singapore tomorrow evening. But now seems a good time to reflect on my travels in both Nepal and Bhutan. On the face of it Nepal and Bhutan … [Read more...]
Day 19: Paro – Tiger’s Nest
30 October 2019 After an early breakfast, we drive 30 minutes from the hotel to hike to the legendary Taktsang (Tiger's Nest), a magnificent monastery, clinging on a rock cliff 900 meters above the valley floor. The legend, dating back to 747AD, says that the Great Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhawa) flew here from northeast Bhutan on the back of a tigress to subdue the demons of Paro Valley. The guru then meditated in the holy cave that is the site of the Pelphug Lhakhang today. According to … [Read more...]
Day 18: Paro
29 October 2019 Today we leave the peaceful Haa Valley. As we climb the steep road towards the Chelela Pass again we stop to take a picture of Haa with its 3 mountains that represent compassion, wisdom and power. We have a short break at the pass and even though the weather is again fantastic, only a few photos are taken. Chenga tells us more about the 4 pillars of happiness (first two were caring for the environment and preserving national culture). The other 2 are good governance and social … [Read more...]
Day 17: Exploring Haa Valley
28 October 2019 Today we will spend the whole day exploring the culturally rich Haa Valley, which is also known for being the ancestral home of the Royal grandmother. The two most important temples here are the 7th century Lhakhang Karpo (White temple) and Lhakhang Nagpo (Black temple), which sit at the foothills of a group of hills known as Meri Puensum. Legend has it that King Songtsen Gampo released a black and a white pigeon to select sites to build the temples, which act as guardian … [Read more...]
Day 16: Punakha to Haa Valley
27 October 2019 The weather gods really smiled on us today. At 5am the clouds were right down and not looking promising but by the time we set off in the bus the clouds had burned off and the sun was shining in a clear blue sky. We are heading back over the Dochula Pass were we could hardly see anything 2 days ago and are really hoping for a view of the Eastern Himalayas. We couldn’t have asked for better conditions: the peaks coming into view as we climbed up to the pass (stopping for photos … [Read more...]
Day 15: Punakha
26 October 2019 After breakfast we have a 30-minute drive into the countryside to the base of a hill where there is a ridge-top temple - we are climbing up to visit it. We begin our hike at a suspension bridge that crosses the Mo Chu river. We walk alongside a little stream and then through paddy fields in a very lush almost subtropical valley before starting the approx 1 hour climb the trail to the Kahmsum Yulley temple. Although Punakha is lower than Thimphu, we are still feeling the … [Read more...]
Day 14: Thimphu to Punakha
25 October 2019 Today we leave the modern capital Thimphu and travel to the ancient capital of Punakha. Our first stop is the castle-monastery of Simtokha Dzong, the oldest in Bhutan and the first built by Zhabdrung from Mongolia (in 1629AD). It is said to guard against a demon that escaped into the nearby rock. Inside we listen to monks having a lively debate about religion. Then we climb the winding Dochula Pass (3,100m) through beautiful tropical forest and sparse … [Read more...]
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