Day 13: Thimphu

Next stop is the Zilukha Nunnery that is home to between 40-65 nuns and also provides shelter for aging women and orphaned girls. We are allowed to go inside but not take photos.

On the way back into the centre of the city we stop at a lookout where we can see the vast white, red and gold Tashicho Dzong (Fortress of the Glorious Religion), located on the right bank of Thimphu Chu (river). We can also see the seat of Government behind it and the Supreme Court further up the valley. We also watch people harvesting their crops on the terraces below us.

We also visit the National Library and see photos of the main Dzongs around Bhutan and hear about some of the history (and more about the royal family). There is also a huge book there that has been certified by the Guiness Book of World Records as the largest book in the world (we are not allowed to take photos).

We are all quite taken with the various signs we see around the city, with little sayings or encouraging good behaviour. I had heard someone previously say that they found it to be controlling with rules written everywhere but we found it rather nice and agreed with the sentiments (protect the environment, don’t do drugs, keep the place clean, respect others). Smoking and drug use are prohibited in Bhutan. Most of the signs are in English as English is taught in schools here from a very early age.

In the city centre we visit a money changer/ATM so that we can get some local currency. Most of our trip in Bhutan is included but we need some local money for drinks or handcrafts etc we want to buy. It is harder than expected as the ATM doesn’t accept cards with chips in them and although I have some US dollars, the money changer won’t accept any that have any marks on them of any kind.

We stop for lunch at a very nice restaurant in the city that brings out a wide range of different dishes for us to try. Doreen is very surprised to discover that the long bean she ate was in fact a chilli.

After lunch we go to watch some men practicing for an archery tournament. Archery is the national sport in Bhutan and they are represented in it at the Olympics. We were very impressed with the high-tech nature of their bows. We watched the teams practice for quite a while.

Next door is the National Stadium and Chenga takes us inside for a look. It is a large stadium and has the fanciest VIP stand that I’ve seen. We are delighted to discover school children from a whole range of schools practicing routines for their National Day in December. We start to photograph some of the groups when 2 men race over to ask us to stop – it turns out that there were royal children in the group closest to us. So we walk around the stadium to where we can take photos and see Chenga’s niece with the Little Dragon Primary School. Later we also meet his cousin who is a teacher.

Next stop is the Centenary Farmers Market where we see a huge range of vegetables being sold, along with dried fish, cereals, and a whole range of dried animal products including dried skin (for eating), dried cheese, dried sausages. We learnt last night that all pesticides are banned in Bhutan, they grow most of their own vegetables and whilst they do eat meat, they don’t kill any of their animals or even go fishing – everything is imported.

Then we visit a weaving factory and see the women producing the beautiful cotton and silk cloth that can take several months to complete. Although it is lovely and Doreen is keen to buy something, the fabric is quite coarse so none of us are tempted. We watch a woman trying on the traditional men’s Gho to take home for her husband – the staff are very amused. The Gho is a bit like a knee-length kimono tied at the waist with a belt – and they wear it with long socks. Women wear a Kira – which is a long wrapped skirt – with a little jacket over the top. Both men and women have big contrasting cuffs on their sleeves. The Gho is a bit like wearing a suit when they go to work – at home they wear pants and a shirt.

Then it is back to the hotel for a bit of a rest before we head out again to visit the Tashicho Dzong (or castle fortress) that we had seen from the hill earlier. The Dzong doesn’t open until 5.00pm on weekdays and there is a very short period to visit before darkness falls at 5.30 and the monks begin their evening prayers. Chenga adds a white silk sash to his traditional Gho as is expected when entering a more formal environment. On the way we pass the palace, which is extremely modest – apparently the king said he’d rather give the extra money to support the poor. We are really starting to like this King (he brought in Gross National Happiness in 2008)!

Although this magnificent building was built in 1641, the original building dates back to 1216. There is a castle tower in the middle that is used for royal business but mostly it is a monastery and administrative building these days. The temple is absolutely beautiful but of course we can’t take photos inside. Darkness falls very quickly and the monks are starting to stream out ready to go to the temple so we head out. As we walk back to the bus, a few lights start to go on and then suddenly the whole of the outside of the Dzong is lit up magnificently so we have to take a multitude of photos – it is truly spectacular.

Then we head for dinner at a lovely little bistro decorated with motorbike paraphenalia. There is a buffet with homemade egg noodles, garlic chicken in a delicious gravy and lots of vegetables. Most of the group try a range of different local beers but as I am still coughing I settle for a hot lemon and ginger drink. Then we are all feeling tired out – from the altitude as much as anything – so we retire to the hotel for the night.

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For this and other similar tours see:

Explore Asia with Intrepid Travel (a range of different travel styles – see my post on travel styles)

Peregrine Adventures (Comfort tours)

Geckos Adventures (for 18 to 30s)

Note: After people telling me they had booked an Intrepid Tour on my recommendation, I now have affiliate links with the Intrepid Travel group of companies and may receive a commission if you book a tour online within a couple of months after clicking through to these sites.  So if you are enjoying my tips and stories and finding them useful in choosing your own travel, please click on these links and help me to bring you more .

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