22 August 2025
We had an amazing early morning 5.45am start today to go to the Reniala Reserve (also known as the Spiny Forest or Baobab Forest). We got there just as the sun was starting to rise and were able to capture wonderful silhouettes of the bizarre plants.
Octopus plant – spiny succulent plant endemic to Madagascar’s spiny forests. The spines protect the small, succulent leaves; they are well adapted to the arid conditions and during the dry season they shed their leaves to prevent water loss. They are named for the slender stems branching out from the base, like octopus tentacles. They are also sometimes referred to as compass plants as they point to the south.
And of course the iconic Baobab trees – there are 6 different species in Madagascar. There were spectacular giant baobabs including one that was over 1200 years old and 12m in circumference. We saw a baby baobab (5 years old and looks like a stick), baobab fruit (left over from last season) and were shown the false baobab that has a skinny bottom. Giant pachypodiums look a bit like baobabs but are a large variety of the Madagascar palm – have a spiny trunk topped with leaves (although most have dropped at the moment for the dry season).
Saw chameleons and lizards (with a better view of the Standings Day Gecko from yesterday). There were some beautiful birds, including male and female Soimanga sunbird (male has blue head, female has yellow belly). Also some lemurs: ring-tailed lemurs and brown lemurs. They have adapted to the arid environment by licking the bark of trees in the morning to get moisture.
Outside the park there were some beautiful handicrafts and I bought a small mask to go on my mask wall at home.
Back to the hotel for breakfast and then we have the day to ourselves. Anne and I sort out a few things and then decide on a walk along the beach towards the fishing village of Ifaty.
The beach was full of locals: fishing with nets in the shallows, wading in the shallows, a variety of boats and canoes, picnicking and just having fun. There were of course lots of people hawking their wares including heaps of kids trying their luck too. We were befriended by a cute little 11 year old Carlos and his younger mates Marco and Franco. Despite trying every selling trick in the book, Carlos stayed very friendly asking names and ages, telling us to ignore certain people, selling necklaces but also offering to get his mum to braid my hair and to get us coconuts.
It was exhausting trying to shake of all the aggressive hawkers in our hours walk. Eventually Anne decides to buy a coconut from one of her groupies, so I decide to talk. Carlos up on his offer (much to the disgust of others).
Eventually we get back to our hotel.
We have lunch right down at the beachfront – Anne and I share some grilled shrimps and shrimp curry with saffron rice.
After lunch we relax some more sorting out photos etc. Anne goes for a swim. Then we have a fantastic massage down near the waterfront.
A bit later we go with Bruce and Bernadette to enjoy a local rum on the steps down to the beach looking out at the sun setting over the Mozambique Chanel. Then we have dinner at the restaurant.
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